The Roe

The uni's why you're here. Sweet, clean, melting instead of rich, and served enough different ways across one meal that you start noticing how the preparation changes it.

The big uni bowl is what the room orders. Three hundred grams of it, several ways to eat it, and a table working out which way they like best. First-timers should get it and regulars get it anyway.

The oysters turn up pristine with none of the aftertaste that makes people say they don't like oysters. The signature roll's worth ordering beside them, and there's a sea urchin drink that sounds improbable and works.

The unagi and foie gras rice bowl is the one a table splits while working through the seafood.

There's art on the walls and it's taken seriously — the place doubles as a gallery and the pieces change. It gives it a different feel to a seafood restaurant with the usual fit-out.

Get the oysters first while you're deciding. They come out fast and they set up everything after them.

Build the order around the seafood. Everything else is a supporting dish however good it is. The uni turns up in enough forms across a meal that you start noticing how the preparation changes it. It gets busy and stays busy, full of people who came specifically instead of passing by, and that gives the place a particular energy on a weekend.

Take someone who hasn't eaten uni before. Watching them work out what it is halfway through the first spoonful is half the point of bringing them. The fit-out's changed over the years and people who've been coming a long time have opinions on which version they liked, which tells you how attached they are.

Glen Waverley has a dense strip of very good Asian restaurants and a crowd that knows exactly what it's doing. This is one of the ones people take visitors to.